Ulcinj and Ada Bojana by boat: sand, a river and the far south

Most of the Montenegrin coast is rock: cliffs, headlands and small coves. In the far south it changes completely. Beyond Ulcinj the mountains step back, and the shore becomes one long line of sand that ends at a river. A boat trip here has little in common with one in the Bay of Kotor, and that is exactly why it is worth making.

A different kind of coast

Ulcinj is the southernmost town on the Montenegrin coast. Its old town stands on a rocky headland above a small town beach, and from the water you see the walls rising straight from the cliff.

South-east of the town begins Velika plaža, the Long Beach: around twelve kilometres of fine, dark sand, flat and open, with a sea that stays shallow a long way out. Where the beach ends, the river Bojana reaches the Adriatic. The river marks the border with Albania.

The Bojana and its island

Shortly before the sea the Bojana divides into two arms. Between them lies Ada Bojana, a flat, roughly triangular island: two sides face the river, and the third is a sandy beach facing the open sea. The island has long been known as a naturist resort, and the steady afternoon wind brings kitesurfers to the neighbouring part of the Long Beach.

The river itself is the surprise. After the bright, open beach you are suddenly on slow, green water between reeds and willows. Along the banks stand wooden huts on stilts, and beside them hang large square nets on long poles, which are lowered into the river and lifted again. Locals call these nets kalimera. Herons and cormorants are a common sight.

Lunch above the water

The Bojana is known for its fish restaurants, many of them built on stilts or wooden platforms over the river. The menu is usually simple: fish from the river and from the sea, grilled or in a soup, eaten a metre or so above the water.

Many trips include a stop at one of them. Lunch is usually paid separately at the restaurant, so check in the listing what the price of the trip covers.

What a trip from Ulcinj usually covers

Routes differ from boat to boat, but most combine some of the following:

• The old town from the sea, with its walls and the cliffs below them.
• The rocky stretch south of the town, with small coves and pine trees above the water.
• A run along the Long Beach, which only shows its real length from a boat.
• The mouth of the Bojana and, if conditions allow, a slow cruise up the river and around the island.
• A swim stop or a lunch stop, often both.

Some trips go the other way, north-west towards Valdanos, a bay surrounded by old olive groves. Read the itinerary in the listing to see which direction a trip takes.

The river mouth is shallow and its sandbanks shift. Whether to cross it is the skipper's decision on the day, and in a swell the route may be shortened.

Sea and weather in the south

There is no sheltered bay here: the whole stretch faces the open Adriatic. Mornings are usually calmer, and the wind from the sea tends to build in the afternoon. For how conditions change through the season, see our month-by-month guide.

Over sand the water is shallow and warm, but less clear than over the rocks further north, and near the river mouth it is often cloudy. This is not the place for snorkelling. It is a very good place for wading, floating and children who are not yet confident swimmers.

Who it suits

• Families with small children, thanks to the shallow, warm water and soft sand.
• Guests who have already seen the bay and want a different side of the coast.
• People who like a slow day built around the river and a long lunch.
• Photographers and anyone who enjoys watching birds.

If you are looking for clear water over rocks, sea caves or baroque towns, the north is a better match. Start with our guide to the Bay of Kotor.

Practical notes

• Trips start from Ulcinj. It is a long drive from Kotor or Tivat, so plan a full day in the south or stay a night.
• There is almost no natural shade on the beach or on a small boat. Bring a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water.
• Take some cash for lunch, since small river restaurants may not accept cards.
• By the river in the evening there can be mosquitoes. Repellent takes up little room.

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